Smiles of a Berkshires Night : A Gay Weekend in the Country

While Bernadette Peters, Elaine Stritch and the rest of the cast of the Broadway revival of A Little Night Music are trudging their way through a bleak, Chekhovian production of Sondheim's waltz-driven ode to summer love, the Berkshires are as flaming as the fiery red and gold fall foliage transforming the countryside. This historic geographic region in western Massachusetts offers a host of quaint towns, scenic fall vistas and cultural happenings with a nonchalant gay-friendly attitude. Same-sex marriage has been legal since 2004, but don't expect to see a barrage of gay flags or kitsch shops synonymous with Provincetown or Fire Island. The Berkshires, instead, present a mix of Gilded Age charm with a burgeoning food scene and artist-driven nightlife.

Sarah, Queen of the Berkshires

In its heyday, the Berkshires was home to the east coast elite. Exemplifying this time period is Ventfort Hall in Lenox, which was built for Sarah Morgan (sister of J. Pierpont Morgan) and finished in 1893. The property is now a museum and performance space, playing host to a series of concerts, lectures and readings. Also on display is Les Petites Dames de Mode, a stunning exhibit of nearly sixty models that portray women's fashion from 1855 to 1914. Designer John R. Burbidge, who was a senior designer at the famed Priscilla of Boston, has worked on the collection for more than thirty years, incorporating vintage fabrics and elaborate historical details.

From the Guilded Age to the Green Age

While you won't be able to stay overnight at Ventfort Hall unless you've hidden in the water closet, you can feel equally pampered at the charming and �ber green Topia Inn ($125-$210/night). This gay-owned and -operated bed & breakfast is the creation of partners Nana Simopoulos and Caryn Heilman, who assembled an eclectic team of artists, craftspeople and builders to open a zen-like space that honors various cultures and traditions as well as the environment. The property also sits a stone's-throw away from the Ashuwillticook Trail, an 11-mile recreational trail and a perfect way to take in the fall foliage.

Defying Gravity

Artists of all kinds have migrated to the Berkshires over the decades to explore their craft and have greatly contributed to the rebirth of enclaves struggling to rebound from factory closings throughout the 1980's. At the anchor of this movement is MASS MoCA in North Adams, 13 acres that once housed a textile factory then later an electronics plant. Now one of the foremost contemporary arts centers in the Northeast, the organization is an open platform for the creative process. Currently not to be missed is Sol LeWitt: A Wall Drawing Retrospective - a stunning installation comprised of 105 large-scale wall drawings spanning the artist's career.

Another hidden gem is the Berkshire Musuem in Pittsfield. Founded in 1903 by Zenas Crane, third-generation owner of Crane & Company (official supplier of paper to the U.S. Treasury), the museum holds a diverse collection of historic artifacts, 19th and 20th century sculptures and paintings, as well as contemporary installations. Joe Wheaton and Susan Rodgers, two prominent gay artists, have combined forces to create Spacial Relationships, showing through October 11th. Wheaton's work is structural and gravity-defying and challenges the "gay artist" stereotype. "I initially thought I had to show my proficiency as a welder," he shares with a sense of humor. "If I wasn't gay I could have worked in styrofoam." Rodgers' work utilizes everyday materials like wood, wire and rope. The collaborative effort was commissioned by Executive Director Stuart Chase sight unseen, a testament to the museum's commitment to diverse programming.

Un-naked Boys Singing

Live performance abounds throughout the Berkshires, and while venues like Jacob's Pillow and Tanglewood have wrapped up their summer seasons, there are still plenty of offerings throughout the fall. Barrington Stage Company has been at the forefront of cultivating LGBT programming and audience involvement. Producing Director Richard Parison (who joins Richmond CenterStage Foundation as Executive Director this November) shares, "Barrington Stage Company recognizes the LGBT community's vitality and dedication to the arts and will continue to produce vibrant programming and cultivation events." In line with this mission is the presentation of Bill Nelson's All-Male Review October 8-11 (tickets $15), an evening of inventive theatre songs where "nothing's naked but the lyrics". The show is part of the theatre's Musical Theatre Lab, curated by Tony-award winner William Finn. Theatregoers can also take advantage of a free symposium on Arthur Miller the same weekend in conjunction with their production of The Crucible, running through October 24th.

Local Flavors

No weekend getaway would be complete without exploring local flavors - and the Berkshires is the perfect destination for seasonally inspired restaurants. Michael Ballon's Castle Street Cafe has been serving farm-to-table cuisine for more than 20 years, while also serving as a popular venue for jazz on the weekend. Be sure to check out his impressive Bordeaux collection with vintages dating back to 1982 - a hidden gem for your inner oenophile. If barbecue is your thing, a must-stop spot is Route 7 Grill. Owner Lester Blumenthal gave up a successful career in the commercial design industry for this labor of love. "It was all about following a passion - and much more satisfying than selling wallpaper!" Everything is made from scratch from a philosophy inspired by Berkshire Grown as well as the Slow Food movement. Elevating these themes to culinary perfection is Mezze Bistro & Bar. Recently relocated to a three-acre estate overlooking Sheep Hill in Williamstown, Chef Joji Sumi anchors his stunning locavore menu with classic French training and Asian influences.

Out in the Berkshires

To further celebrate gay culture, Out in the Berkshires was recently formed as a resource for art, music, nightlife, and commerce for the LGBT community. Cultural Pittsfield has worked in tandem with the organization to create a Columbus Day weekend celebration that includes an opening night LGBT group art show at The Lichtenstein Center for the Arts, special performances at Barrington Stage Company, Karao-Gay Night and Quite Queer - featuring NYC's underground sensations MKNG FRNDZ and Jen Urban & The Box. For more details, visit www.outintheberkshires.com.

Whether a weekend in the country means traversing to the top of Mount Greylock, diving deep into a wedge of Berkshire Blue cheese at a local cafe, or strolling among the apple trees at Hilltop Orchards, the Berkshires offers an expanse of activities worthy of any gay traveler.