Gay Times in Vegas

In spite of its reputation as a town to let go of inhibitions, Las Vegas has not had, until recently, a mainstream gay nightlife. Oh, there's an area off the Strip affectionately called the "Fruit Loop" that houses a number of smaller gay bars, but as for anything equivalent to the big clubs in New York or Los Angeles, there really was nothing.

It's not that Vegas is homophobic, but it wasn't until a few years ago that mainstream gay events were more visible in the resort corridor. It took one LGBT promoter to bring a gay event to the Strip and then, suddenly, the LGBT scene flourished, bringing a revitalized nightlife to LGBT people.

While there are summer pool parties and gay clubs to be found on the boulevard, events like Gay Pride are still in their infancy - which is one reason why Vegas is working to increase their LGBT visibility by attracting the gay community to a destination that would seem to be a perfect match.

And that's what makes Vegas so interesting right now.

For those who live in larger cities, Vegas can be a nice escape from the 24-hour onslaught of gay clubs, parties, and events. So while Vegas promoters are attempting to give the LGBT community more options for gay events, let's face it, life doesn't always have to be a gay party.

Vegas isn't only a place to drink, gamble, and dance; the city is abundant with first-rate shows (hello, Cher and Celine), non-gaming hotels, and opulent spas that offer the best in pampering and self-indulgence. If that's not enough, there are also amazing restaurants around every corner with menus designed by world-renowned chefs.

WHERE TO STAY

The Vdara Hotel

If you haven't been to the Las Vegas Strip in a while, the first thing you'll notice is how much it's changed. After a recession that hurt the Strip, recent additions have inspired resurgence, most notably in the area known as CityCenter.

Started by MGM Resorts International and later joined by Dubai World as a joint partner, the largest privately-funded construction project in the history of the U.S. connects many MGM properties together including the Monte Carlo, Aria, Mandarin Oriental, Vdara, Veer Towers, the Bellagio, and the Crystals - a retail and entertainment area located in the center of it all.

Nestled between the Cosmopolitan Hotel and Aria rises a building that stands apart from the others, notably for its unusual concave shape. That concave shape has caused the hotel a bit of a headache, but I'll get back to that little nugget in a sec.

The Vdara itself is a classy affair. Not only is it a green building (as is most of City Center), but it's also smoke-free, casino-free, and nightclub-free. This immediately gives it a sense of being a cut above the rest and also allows for an air (no pun intended) of relaxation. There are the standard features like a caf�, bar, and restaurant, as well as a pool, gym, juice bar, and salon.

Most interestingly, the Vdara is the proud owner of something called Solar Convergence. Because of the concave design and the building's reflective surface, the reflective light of the sun causes a slightly dangerous "death ray" to travel across the pool on a daily basis. This ray has been known to singe hair and melt plastic. While this phenomenon remains a problem, it's an interesting facet of hotel design. And the truth is, I didn't experience the death ray, nor did I hear anyone complaining about it.

There are 1,495 suites that include both single and deluxe studios and one and two bedroom penthouses, some of which can be purchased and then rented out to guests by the owners themselves.

Walking into the spacious 582-square-foot Deluxe Studio Suite you immediately step into the tiled kitchen. To the right, there is a cute table for two, a mini-kitchenette with a small burner, under-the-counter fridge, sink and plenty of cupboard space. Once you pass through, you enter the living room complete with couch, chair, wooden desk, and a view to die for. Not only that, but if you need to get a little shut-eye during the daylight hours, a simple touch of a button and black-out curtains descend - automatically sealing off most of the light from the outside.

To the left, you enter the bedroom which is separated from the living room by a wall that houses a 42" TV on either side (one for the bedroom, the other for the living room.) The bed is amazingly comfortable with mattresses designed exclusively by Sealy, and the pillows are soft, but amazingly supportive. The d�cor is made of cherry wood giving the room a classic and sophisticated feeling.

Through a frosted sliding glass door is the ample bathroom that has a stand-alone glass shower, large vanity, and a deep soaking tub (which I used repeatedly during my stay). It's simple, beautiful, and elegant - and includes more towels than you could possibly need.

The only drawback I really found was the registration desk which - upon checkout time - had a line that wrapped around a roped partition like a ride in Disneyland. Despite that, the hotel representatives were all very kind and knowledgeable and handled every issue or problem with grace. The Vdara is a hotel that makes you feel like a million bucks, and in Vegas, what more could you want?

WHERE TO EAT

Julian Serrano

Located in the Aria Hotel and Casino is a charmingly decorated restaurant featuring clever interpretations of Spanish fare. Featuring an array of tapas and paellas, as well as main course dishes such as Colorado lamb chops and a lobster tail dish called mariscada, Julian Serrano has a little bit of something for everybody.

My lunch started off with a simple goat cheese salad of mixed greens, romesco, mint, grilled green onions, and roasted cherry tomatoes. The flavors were light and tasty and didn't fill me up before I got to my tapas selections.

For a sort of "main-course" tapas, I had the pintxo de moruno which is marinated pork loin on a skewer with each bite of meat separated by pancetta. The perfectly sized portion is placed on a small bed of tasty toasted couscous punctuated with raisins.

Dessert consisted of a dense Santiago almond cake with a side of turron ice cream and candied almonds that was surprisingly not heavy. But the best item I ordered - and the one thing I could literally eat every day for the rest of my life - were the stuffed dates. A plate of four, each date was stuffed with a Marcona almond wrapped in applewood bacon and then deep-fried causing the date to be juicy and tender and the sweetness to enliven your mouth. With a side of spicy piquillo sauce for those that want a bit of spicy with their sweet and savory, the stuffed date is truly to die for.

Border Grill

Owned by fellow-gay Susan Feniger, Border Grill is upscale Mexican food for a discerning crowd. While there is an extensive lunch and dinner menu, it is the Border Brunch that can be a filling treat for one or more. With seventeen items to choose from, it's easy to fill up with just three or four, but your instinct will be to keep on ordering.

The best of the lot were the plantain empanadas that are filled with roasted plantains, black beans, poblano, and cotija cheese, then deep-fried for a sweet and savory treat. The machaca chilaquiles were also of ample size and included slow-cooked beef brisket, crispy corn tortilla chips, Mexican cheeses, roasted chiles, and eggs all mixed together like a breakfast nacho pile.

The fresh fruit plate nicely cleansed the palate with its tasty papaya, pineapple, and melon slices. Lastly, the steak and egg with crispy poblano potatoes is almost a meal in itself, so be sure to share. If you're hungry, this is certainly the place to be. Generous portions and a sizeable menu - not to mention a collection of specialty beverages - make Border Grill a must stop for brunch.

D.O.C.G.

Nestled on the third floor of the Cosmopolitan Las Vegas is a charmingly rustic wine bar/restaurant by Chef Scott Conant and named after a category of Italian wine called Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita - or - the highest level of Italian wine origin.

Featuring an extensive menu of Italian wines (you can only order by the bottle) and an appropriately Italian menu, D.O.C.G. would be a comfortable fit in Soho or Greenwich Village. Consisting of meat, poultry, and fish dishes, it also has nice selections of pizzas like the D.O.C.G.. Pizza which is layered with fonduta, egg, and truffles. Pastas are equally potent and recall both classic flavors and updated high-end tastes.

Main dishes include a veal chop, scallops, and the dish I had: wood-roasted chicken over spring vegetables. Basically an entire small bird, it was cooked perfectly with a crispy skin and tender, juicy meat on the inside. The dish could have used a few more vegetables as they seemed more garnish than anything else, but all in all it was just the right size as to not be too filling.

There is an extensive after-dinner drink list to go with the myriad of desserts include pineapple cake with coconut sorbet, a chocolate mousse bar with malt shake, and the most popular dessert, the caramel budino which is like a liquid pudding with a salted caramel sauce on top. Really sweet, but seriously tasty!

Japonais

My favorite of the restaurants visited (which is even difficult to say as I enjoyed them all), Japonais - located in the Mirage Resort and Casino - has beautiful d�cor and a menu that is colossally hard to choose from. While it has a sushi bar and, therefore, a nice selection of sushi, it is the entrees that you will be hard pressed to choose from.

I recommend the kaiso - a marinated sweet vinegar seaweed salad with fresh cucumbers and toasted sesame. As someone who doesn't eat seafood, my dinner date was surprised at my choice, but I found the seaweed to be a fun, crunchy texture and the marinade sweet and yummy.

By far, the menu item I most remember from my trip to Vegas and probably one of the most delicious meals I've had in years was the braised short ribs glazed with a hoison sauce and topped with balls of roasted tomatoes and poached pears. In the center of more sauce was a creamy pile of Japanese sweet potato puree that only added to the deliciousness of the main course. And those short ribs... From the first moment my fork entered, the flaky meat just fell away into moist goodness that almost had me on the floor. With a slight crunch on the edges to the amazingly tender meat on the inside, I don't think I could have asked for something more mouth-watering or "culinar-ily" arousing. Seriously. And I realize I just made up a word, but there aren't any other words to describe it. It's a must when you're in Vegas.

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WHERE TO DRINK

Bond

A blink-or-you-miss-it bar near one of the Cosmopolitan's many entrances, Bond is an upscale bar that feels a little bit like you're drinking in the middle of a fancy shopping mall. With plenty of places to seat and an open ambience, Bond is cool-looking bar and their martini twist on the Kamikaze was delicious.

Freezone

When you think "small neighborhood gay bar," Freezone comes to mind before you even know what Freezone is. Small and completely unassuming, Freezone is a sort of melting pot of gay guys and lesbians where the gals hang by themselves and the guys cower away from them. At least on the night I went. The drinks were overpriced for what you got (LA prices served in a plastic cup), but it was Pride weekend and we all know how prices can get jacked up. The bartenders were no-nonsense and the cute shot boy was a sexy charmer, although the jury is out on whether that was genuine or simply for tips. Needless to say, this isn't the hot spot for Vegas travelers, but it's a good place if you don't want to be in the "scene" so much as just get a drink among the locals.

WHERE TO RELAX AND REJUVENATE

The Bathhouse Spa at Mandalay Bay

The Bathhouse Spa, located deep within Mandalay Bay, is a nice retreat away from the ding-ding-ding of the slot machines and the boozing crowds. With a grey stone interior, the Bathhouse is like being inside the Battlestar Galactica. It's a little Zen, a little cold, but quiet and mellow just the same. The small locker room has plenty of space for primping after a treatment as well as the requisite showers and dry sauna.

After donning a fluffy robe and shower slippers, guests wait in a darkened area with flat-screen TV's and magazines on the padded benches. Around the corner are chaises and a dipping pool and hot tub. Upstairs are the treatment rooms which, on the day I was there, seemed to be a bustle of activity. It's not the warmest atmosphere, but it's made up for by the staff which is friendly and accommodating.

I was blessed with a hot stone massage (my first), given to me by the incredibly sweet Verona who provided me one of the best massages I've had in years. She knew exactly where my tension was and had strong enough hands to knead it out of me. The use of stones is incredibly helpful in smoothing out the knots and the heat emanating from them allowed my muscles to let go and be worked on. I highly recommend the massage and Verona.

Sahra Spa at Cosmopolitan

A gorgeous retreat in a beautiful hotel, Sahra Spa is warm and inviting. Entering the front desk area, I was greeted by a genuinely friendly hostess who explained I would be getting an Aromacouture massage where "sense, science, and emotion come together."

I was given an iPad where I answered a list of questions about my current mood and physical state, including likes and dislikes which created my very own personal scent blend. This was used in a full body massage that was designed to meet my specific needs.

After providing my details, I was sent down a long, beautiful hallway that ended with a floor to high-ceiling waterfall into the men's area where I was greeted by the handsome Braulio from Guadalajara who guided me through the expansive men's locker room. The waiting room was bright and calming with ice water, almonds, and tea for those that wanted something refreshing. For those looking for a bit more stimulation, there was an adjoining room with two large flat screen TV's.

The spa area consisted of a few chaise lounges, a warm dipping pool with a rain shower in the middle, a steam room, cool mist shower, and sauna. Showers for after the massage were large and included everything you might need.

When my masseuse Patty took me to the massage rooms, I was startled by not only the number of rooms, but the long hallway that housed them. The rooms themselves were warm and dimly lit with tiny lights gracing one wall and soft music playing throughout.

The massage itself was relaxing and effective and allowed me to let my tension drift away. As my last "event" before flying back home to Los Angeles, this spa was the perfect end to my trip.

WHAT TO SEE

Zumanity

Probably the best Cirque show I've seen thus far, Zumanity takes the usual acrobats, contortionists, and aerialists, and enmeshes them in a night of "sin" and sensuality. Definitely for the over-18 crowd, Zumanity is a playful romp with a tongue-in-cheek hostess named Edie, the Mistress of Sensuality, who guides the audience through a dark and sexy night of couplings that will appeal to both straight and gay alike. (The man-on-man fight dance that ends with an animalistic kiss is hot!)

Each performer has an act that wows. From the little person who zips above the audience on aerial silks, to the water bowl girl-on-girl contortionists, to the hot bad boy who aggressively flies, dangles, and spins above the stage on a rigging made of chains. With bawdy, good-natured humor, Zumanity is the hottest show on the Strip with gorgeous performers and a real sense of connection between the audience and the cast. It's definitely the Cirque show to see.

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LAS VEGAS PRIDE

Pride Parade

As stated before, Las Vegas Pride celebrations are in their infancy, so I wasn't expecting much from the parade itself. I will admit to being pleasantly surprised at the simplicity of it all. It's just a parade and an event stage. I didn't see many vendors and booths set up, although there were some people selling sausages and sparkly bangles, but that's about it. The parade was just that. The parade.

The cool thing was that the parade was held at night so this allowed for the floats to be more dazzling and the event to have more of a party atmosphere. The crowd was somewhat old-fashioned in the sense that they were totally focused on the parade and giddily excited by it all. It was like watching a bunch of gay newbies seeing their first Pride float.

The floats and parade participants themselves were similar to those in the LA festival, but I will admit that the floats seemed to have been thought out a bit more than LA's recent years. There really seemed to be a sense of Pride and community that I feel is lacking in LA, so for that I give them props.

The parade only lasted a few hours, but you know what? The length was perfect - because you can only see so many rifle twirlers and drag queens in one night.

Pride Festival

The Pride Festival itself is a one-day affair held downtown at the Clark County Amphitheatre and is also something of a new thing in Vegas. Not as crowded as Los Angeles and certainly more spirited, again, Vegas Pride reminds me of the festivals I attended as a newly-out gay man in the early 90's.

Booths of LGBT info and products spanned the small festival area and on the spacious lawn you could spread a blanket and relax for the afternoon listening to music and waiting for the big acts to arrive.

Mya, 98 Degrees vet Jeff Timmons, as well as Pride Parade's Celebrity Grand Marshal Josh Strickland were scheduled to appear, while local bands entertained throughout the day. Honestly, I saw all I needed to in an hour, but if you bring a group of friends and make a day out of it to hang and watch the performances, it's pretty damn charming.

There was a more genial atmosphere as opposed to the sexed-up party feeling LA Pride has, which I'll admit, I kinda' dug.

After-Party

Held at Bare, the pool/bar located inside the Mirage casino, the after-party Heaven was put on by promoter Eduardo Cordova and was "the" place for the Las Vegas gay elite to party. With performances by little known act Neon Hitch, go-go boys, and pricey drinks (two non-alcoholic diet cokes were $14.17... don't ask), it's a small venue but was the prime spot for people watching.

As Brandon (a cast-member of Zumanity) pointed out, the private tables were each reserved by what seemed to be different "shows" around the strip and the gay and gay-friendly casts hung around, meeting and greeting each other in what was clearly the "A-List" of the Vegas strip. Local celebrities mingled and schmoozed with the locals and tourists, and despite it seeming a bit cliquey, the crowd was pretty cool. There was attitude from some for sure, but, for the most part, everyone was getting along and having a great time.

FINAL REFLECTIONS

Given that it was the LGBT community in Vegas, I might have expected a bit more flash and dazzle. But for a community that is just starting to find its own, spending a weekend dipping my touristy toes into their waters for a night or two was a pretty darn refreshing environment to be around.

And let's be honest - Vegas isn't really about the gay nightlife. It's nice to experience it and be around "our people," but we all go to Vegas for the spectacle, the gambling, the booze, and the divas.

For spectacle, Vegas will always be the place.